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Union Rock Galapagos

Galapagos, Ecuador (2023)

In my heart of hearts when I was first approached about going on this trip with a select group of friends, I thought – YES, I must do this. My mother had been to the Galapagos when she was around my age. I’d seen her photos and heard her scrapbook stories. So coming off of a year long contract I set myself up to have this adventure. However my left hip had been deteriorating and I had mobility issues. I knew there would be a lot of hiking and climbing on rocks. How could I do that? The answer was to bet on the effects of a cortisone shot a good week before we left. Will it make a difference and for how long??? Bravo. It made a huge difference and I hiked, kayaked, snorkeled and stepped in and out of boats with much less difficulty. We flew into Guayaquil from Miami, stayed a night and then did a short flight over to the islands. Santa Cruz was where we lodged for half the time and then on Isabela island for the remainder of the trip. We did all the classic tourist activites like seeing the giant tortoises in the Santa Cruz Highlands area, visited the Charles Darwin Center, and saluted the large preserved effigy of poor Lonesome George. There was a day hike around South Plaza Island that was full of sea lions, blue footed boobies, frigates, iguanas, etc etc. A couple of us went kayaking out in the bay area. I was solo in a large kayak and it was a bit intimidating, but I managed fine. As I paddled around, I spotted a large eagle ray breaching. The snorkeling was disappointing around Santa Cruz (Tortuga Bay) but when we got to Isabela that changed. The day before we left Isabela we motored up it’s west coast to the lava tunnels known as a rich habitat for marine life. That’s where I saw the small white tip sharks, giant sea turtles feeding on the bottom, some tropical fish (parrot mainly), a black ray resting on the sea floor, young sea lions and blue footed boobies. The lava tunnels are definitely worth your time but try to go when other tour boats are not there. It was a bit crowded in the spot our guide chose. I would be remiss not to mention the thrill of Union Rock. On the way to the lava tunnels there is a rock, way out in the ocean which rises solitarily amidst the crashing and splashing of sea waves. Birds, sea lions, and small penguins are there clustered together. We circled the rock and it was a thrill. The pull of the ocean waves was strong so it also felt a bit dangerous but we had a very capable pilot. A few takeaways: 1) Don’t journey to Isabela from Santa Cruz on a boat if the sea is choppy and you are packed in with 20+ other people. That was miserable for me. You can fly or rent a boat and captain with fewer people. I opted to NOT journey back to Santa Cruz via boat and was able to fly out of Isabela to get to the Santa Cruz airport. It was more expensive but worth it. 2) Food: don’t expect much. We had some good options but a trip to Galapagos is not a foodie trip. And red meat – best to avoid since cattle are in scarce supply there. 3) Snorkeling: if you want a serious snorkeling adventure then get a guide specialized in that. In and around Santa Cruz we went snorkeling twice and saw almost nothing. It’s never a sure thing what you will see but our tours were planned with a wide range of interests in mind so I am sure we weren’t hitting the primo spots. 4) Zen moments to be had: take an early morning walk down a beach and get away from people. Watch the birds, iguanas, and take in the surf. Say a prayer that this unique haven not be spoiled by development and tourism EVER.

Seymour Airport, Baltra
Playa Brava, Santa Cruz
Marine iguanas, Playa Brava
Tortuga Bay, Santa Cruz
Blue footed boobie, Lava Tunnels
Young sea lion, Lava Tunnels
My travel mates, Lava Tunnels
Sea turtle, Lava Tunnels
Isabela Beach
4 ft white tip shark Lava Tunnels
Snorkeling in the Lava Tunnels
Solymar Hotel, Puerto Ayora
Baby sea lion showing off for visitors, he was tap dancing with his feet!
Beautiful view from our Santa Cruz hotel, Solymar
Lonesome George immortalized

Costa Rica (2021)

River safari float outside La Fortuna

Costa Rica, a daring adventure in the time of a pandemic. Yes, I did it and it was great! Our group was small and we all had vaccinations and agreed to be tested before leaving CR. This was a three part trip. First we flew into San Jose and transported to Monteverde for a few days of hiking and exploring the cloud forest there. I climbed a very steep lookout and did literally find myself swaying in the wind in the clouds, which was rather scary. Secondly we transported to a hotel near La Fortuna via jeep and boat. We viewed the Arenal Volcano, walked hanging bridges and ziplined through the forest. I was particularly proud of the fact that I ziplined. These were the highest of ziplines in the country and I did seven of them in a row. Some over a mile long. My heart was in my throat but I gutted up and did it. How crazy is that? Our hotel, Tabacon, had lovely pools on the premises which were naturally fed by the springs. However dining was limited. We ventured into La Fortuna and found better dining experiences. On the Safari Float trip we saw glimpses of wildlife and howling monkeys. Afterward our guides took us to a ranch/farm house where we were served refreshments. Sweet humble people in Costa Rica. I saw poverty but in general life felt very peaceful among the population we encountered. Our third destination was to the Manuel Antonio beach area. We had reserved condos at Los Altos that overlooked the beach on a cliff. Our condo was huge! However we didn’t dwell there for long. Time was spent in the pool drinking pina coladas! Otherwise in the few days we had there, we hiked down to the Manuel Antonio National Park, swam in the ocean, and took photos of monkeys, iguanas and sloths. No lack of wildlife in this country! A very special highlight for me was going on the Nauyaca Falls tour. Only about half of us did this. It was very rocky hiking to get to the Falls which had two levels. The highest level falls was surrounded by huge boulders and I could only admire from a distance. The second level of the falls was perfect, with a nice size, deep pool into which the water cascaded. We spent hours there (about 8 of us). Some rubber inner tubes were on site and I grabbed one and soaked for a long time in that pool. Pure bliss and beauty. A great way to end the trip. Our guides were wonderful and planned for us to have lunch at a small roadside cafe afterward. Again, sweet, humble people who are pleased to have you there. On the dining out side, Ronny’s Place near Quepos was the best! Casual and inexpensive. The view was fantastic, they serve flaming dishes, and if you get there before dark you’ll see and hear a pair of macaws, colorful and loud, flying in circles easily visible from the open air balcony. Our closing dinner was at Los Altos. We were served royally since there were very few other parties vacationing there; one small advantage of traveling in a pandemic.

Nauyaca waterfall pool and bliss outside Quepas

Paris (2018)

Oh Gay Paree! City of exceptional culture and refinement! Compulsively I signed up for an Expedia 3 day package to Paris 6 weeks in advance of departure. I went alone and was determined to see the renowned Klimt and Hundertwasser show at the Atelier des Lumieres, an all multi-media show with projections and music in a vacuous space. I just could not resist. How wonderful it was-only 45 minutes to an hour for the full presentation which included more than just Klimt. I sat for three rounds before leaving. But I also checked out the cafe/bar that was attached to the Klimt venue. Inside there was another multi-media show of bubbling paint pigments projected on the walls. Meditative and mesmerizing and very French! I sat with a cocktail in hand soaking it all in. The room was full and everyone was seated unlike the Klimt show where the crowd moved around in a huge open space taking in the entirety of the show. Surprisingly in the bar people’s conversations did not distract and I felt very much a part of a French art scene. Also on my list was a trip to other sites I missed when I journeyed to Paris in 2002. That included a visit to the Pompidou, a night at the Paris Opera, dining at a special restaurant recommended by a friend, and the Pere Lachaise cemetery. Traveling alone would not be my preference but I found myself very free to see what I wanted to see and got around with little complication. However I know now that you don’t just hail a taxi in Paris, you look for a queue and wait in line like in Barcelona otherwise you walk and walk and walk and wonder why taxis pass you by and point ahead. Live and learn!

San Miguel de Allende (2020)

Outside Anado’s studio in front of the Dog Dedication wall

This was my third trip to San Miguel and my second trip with this particular group, Mosaics in Mexico led by Julie Richey. There were about a dozen of us enrolled from various parts of the United States. We were to create mosaics on the property called Casa de las Ranas, the home of Richard Schultz and Anado McLauchlin, a psychedelic mosaic artist of some renown. Their property was located in the small village of La Cieneguita just outside of SMA. We spent five days working on cat mosaics applied to one of the adobe walls surrounding the property. These were cats which were residents at one time or another of Casa de las Ranas and had met some unfortunate demise due to karma. Hence, there were mosaic Taro cards on the wall with their names, Tormento, Chico Che, Gremlin. In the late afternoons and evenings I explored other parts of the city with my work mates. One evening we dined and toured the Hyder House thanks to Shannon Wynne. Another time I ventured out to Atontonilco to see the chapel there. I also enjoyed wandering through the streets and shopping in Mercado de Artesanias. The best part was just the sharing and partnering with other artists to create something extraordinary. Anado has since passed on. I hope I can still go to Casa de las Ranas in the future and see both mosaic murals I helped create from 2017 and 2020. This was a travel experience like no other. RIP Anado.

Our work complete – Casa de las Ranas wall

Paris, France (2002)

The summer of 2002 my mother, my 10 year old son and I traveled to England and then crossed undersea via the ‘Chunnel’ to France. We visited Paris for a week staying in the St. Germaine district near Luxembourg Gardens. My heart’s desire was to take in the Louvre but besides visiting that renowned museum I fell in love with the Musee d’Orsay. Also a must see is the Rodin Museum, which was his home and studio. In the surrounding gardens you will find many of his famous works including the Burghers of Calais, a favorite of mine. We passed up the Pompidou but took our time relaxing in the plaza area spread out before it. Dining out for us was light. We did go for a few outdoor cafe meals. I ordered escargot and managed to flick the little snail from it’s shell along with a burst of butter and chives which ended up on my mother’s blouse. We had a good laugh at that time as well as the French people sitting near us. Silly Americans! However often we preferred to buy crepes from a street vendor and eat them on route to our hotel where we would crack open a bottle of wine, slice cheese and bread to suffice for the evening. Down the street from us was a historic small restaurant called Polidor on Rue Monsieur de Prince. It was a most authentic dining experience. They had a Turkish toilet in their watercloset which we found very charming! Other notes: we visited Versailles, Sacre Coeur and I took my son to Euro Disney for a day. One fun memory from Paris is the encounter we had with a grand Gay Parade that extended forever down St. Germaine. My 10 year old son’s reaction was quite charming being alarmed at the sight of grown men ‘dancing in their underwear’ on top of a float.

Tuscany, Italy (2015)

Italy is beautiful and romantic. I signed up for a food and wine tour. However this was not my favorite trip mainly because of the people. I didn’t go with anyone I knew and no one else was there from DFW area AND I was sick from some kind of stomach bug the last 2 days and missed the farewell dinner. BUT did I enjoy the cultural experience – YES! Rome was merely an in and out destination for our flights. As soon as we got there we were whisked away on a bus to Tuscany and stayed in a little town called Montecantini Terme. From there we journeyed out to all other sites like Florence, Pisa, Luca, San Gimignano, and Siena. We had a cooking class and did visit a winery, but that was not the highlight. For me climbing up the steps of the leaning tower of Pisa was a highlight, seeing Michelangelo’s David, gazing out over the Arno River, enjoying gelatos and pizza, witnessing a parade in Siena, and in the end back in Rome and touring the Vatican. The architecture was amazing. It just wasn’t enough. Italy has so much to offer. I will definitely go back.

Cancun (2016-17)

My holiday fantasy of staying in an all inclusive in Cancun and celebrating New Year’s Eve with people I love came to life! This was the whole intent of the trip. We had a suite at Hotel NYX that was enormous with a great balcony view of the ocean. I slept so peacefully each night listening to the gentle waves of the ocean and feeling cool breeze. My son and his date had their own room on the bottom floor. NYX is not a 4 star inclusive but it was a high 3 star in my opinion. We had good food all week, a beautiful beach, easy access to other parts of the Riviera and the service was great. Within 4 full days we took excursions to Isla Mujeres and Xel Ha. Otherwise we just hung out enjoying the surf and sun. The hotel’s New Year’s Eve party was literally on the beach with a live band and a funky lit up stage for us to dance on. We met other people from around the world and it was great people watching under the stars on a moonlit night. We ventured over to Isla Mujeres by ferry one day. On the island renting a scooter or golf cart was the way to go. If you can book ahead to get a scooter or cart, do it. They were in short supply. You can circulate the entire island in an afternoon. It’s that small. On one end of the island is a sculpture garden with a walking path. This was worth it but sad since so many of the sculptures were metal – corroding and falling apart due to wind, ocean air – ? However it was a scenic point from which to gaze out over the Caribbean Sea. Back in the town of Isla Mujeres there are some good cheap lunch options. Another day we got tickets to Xel Ha which is further down the Riviera Maya. Like so many tourists we booked a bus and joined a lot of other tourists headed that way. It was a bit long – definitely over an hour. Tickets were about 100.00 each and covered everything – food, snorkeling equipment, entry fee but not specialty drinks. There was much to explore even on a rainy day! Edward and I rode bikes down a path to get to the inner tubing activity. I loved that. The inner tubes were huge and comfortable. You get pushed down a mini mini waterfall and are carried away down a channel that opens up into a broader body of water. From there you leisurely float and hand paddle your way along as you witness ziplining and platform diving activities going on from the shore. The lagoon there is huge. Lots of room for snorkeling. After we pulled out we got our snorkeling equipment and had some success seeing a few tropical fish. My son and his date did a snuba excursion and loved it. I would do Xel Ha again. We spent all day there but did not see or do everything. The rain came and went and that put a bit of a damper (pun intended) on the day. For our last night dinner I took everyone out to a steak restaurant called Tres Puertas in Cancun. Very satisfying. Farewell fantasy beach vacation. Mission accomplished!

Portugal (2019)

The tour was a Mayflower cruise down the Douro River. We arrived in Lisbon, got a quick tour and stopped two places on our way to Porto to board our ship. I arrived early to explore Lisbon on my own with a few other friends. I LOVED Lisbon! Old world, low key compared to other large European cities, and friendly people. The food was great everywhere. I took one day trip out to Sintra with a stop at Cascais, and Cabo da Roca, the most western point in Europe. Back in Lisbon I spent time in Alfama, an arts district with scenic lookouts onto the Tagus river. Lori and I had a wonderful meal our first night in Alfama at Farol de Santa Luzia. Later we took a backstreet food and wine tour arranged through Viator that was a highlight since our guide, Tiago, was extraordinary. We visited the Museu Nacional do Azulejo (home to outstanding examples of the blue tile work Portugal is known for) and dropped in on a Banksy show. Shopping near the Praca do Comercio and site seeing the traditional favorites like the Discoveries Memorial, Belem Tower, etc. – check! And that was just the ‘pre-trip’! On the bus to Porto we stopped at Fatima, a religious destination for Catholics, and at Coimbra, home to a famous university. That evening we dined aboard our ship and the hospitality could not have been better. The cruise ships on the Douro are small and can only hold 100 or so guests. Food was great. Scenery was great. Excursions on land included stops at Lamego, Salamanca, Pinhao, Pacheco Winery, and Museu e Parque Arqueologico do Vale do Coa. Side note: if one can do a cruise choose one that will take you on shore and bus you to Salamanca, Spain. It is charming old world and very historic. Back on ship: I enjoyed the experience of passing through a lock and viewing the vineyards from the top deck as we leisurely cruised. I could only spend a short time in Porto before our departure but I did see the spectacular tile work within the train station of Sao Bento and took a tour boat on the river to pass under each of the 7 bridges that cross from Porto to Gaia before the river spills out to the Atlantic Ocean. On the Gaia side of the river we spent time at a winery specializing in Port. So guess what I brought home with me? Oh, and don’t forget to bring back tins of sardines or anchovies. The Portuguese specialize in canned fish!

Cinque Terre, Italy (2015)

As a side trip to Tuscany I decided to spend 3 days in Liguria and explore the Cinque Terre, a region on the coastline of Italy known for it’s five old world fishing villages which are still populated today. I had lodging in Sestri Levanti and used the train to access each of the villages. However to get to Vernazza, I walked the hiking trail that begins in Monterroso. And so a three hour hike ensued. Although the trail was narrow, rocky and steep, the views of the Mediterranean were fantastic. Out of nowhere I encountered a delightful little Italian man who squeezed for me a small cup of orange juice fresh from the cliffside fruit groves for only 2 euro. Vineyards and fruit groves dot the cliffside landscape. Toward the end of the trail was a cat sanctuary for strays where people had made little houses for them and left food. And at last I got a breathtaking glimpse of Vernazza as I rounded one of the last bends in the trail. Each of the villages offer something different. Many think Vernazza is the most scenic. All but Corniglia are set right on the sea with dramatic rock formations and crashing waves and colorful Italian villas shooting upward in alignment with the cliffs. In Riomaggiore I loved the mosaic tunnel that ran through the city. In Manarola I enjoyed the walk up to the cliff restaurants and the views from there. In Vernazza there were charming churches and a castle’s tower overlooking the sea. Sidewalk cafes were plentiful with tables and chairs positioned at a slant as all the walkways tilt toward the sea. Roads that run through these small villages are pedestrian only. Cars not allowed. The mode of transportation to venture outside the village is the train. In one day you can visit all five villages but I recommend doing two one day and three the next; enjoy the scene, eat the food and be mesmerized by the beauty. Take your time.